Flagstone deck of the medieval A Ramallosa bridge, marshland on either side
Camiño

Baiona to Redondela

Nigrán sees plenty of foot traffic. Here you can see what's on, order and collect without losing half your morning.

We are in Priegue, on the official route of the Portuguese Coastal Way, between the climb to Sanromán and the descent into Vigo. The Xunta's guide comes past our door, and so will you.

Baiona to Redondela, stop by stop

Twenty stops in the order you meet them: 13th-century bridges, manor houses, stone crosses, a bench with free fruit, and us somewhere in the middle.

Baroque façade of the chapel of Santa Liberata in Baiona

Baiona

Historic centre. The Camino crosses the town and leaves along Rúa do Conde.

  1. Chapel of Santa Liberata

    Built between 1695 and 1709 by popular subscription. Between its two towers, a niche holds the crucified saint, flanked by the coats of arms of the Kingdom of Galicia and the town. Inside is a relic, an arm bone, brought from Sigüenza in 1689. Her feast day is 20 July.

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    Baroque façade of the chapel of Santa Liberata in Baiona
  2. Sancti Spiritus Hospital

    A 15th-century pilgrims' hospital, one of the oldest on this coast. It is now the town's cultural centre, but the façade still carries the “Hospital de Caridad” plaque and the medallion of the Holy Spirit that gave it its name.

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    Granite arcade and tiled roof of the former Sancti Spiritus Hospital, now Baiona’s cultural centre
  3. Fonte do Pombal

    A fountain-well of around 1560, Gothic in outline, set under an arch in the wall of the Casa de Cristo Rei at O Cruceiro Novo (Santa Cristina da Ramallosa). Three coats of arms sit on the front: the 16th-century royal arms, those of Baiona, and a third now worn smooth. Behind it is a three-metre wash-place. The official Camino guide puts it 1.8 km from the town centre, on the old Camino Real.

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Flagstone deck of the medieval A Ramallosa bridge, marshland on either side

A Ramallosa

The crossing of the river Miñor: the boundary between Baiona and Nigrán, where the marshland begins.

  1. Cruceiro of A Ramallosa

    Standing halfway across the bridge, with its souls' shrine and an image of San Telmo, patron of sailors. Tradition holds that he ordered the bridge rebuilt on the spot where he had worked a miracle. At its foot, a stone table once used in fertility rites.

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    Granite cruceiro with the figure of San Telmo in the middle of the A Ramallosa bridge
  2. A Ramallosa Bridge

    Ninety metres and ten granite arches over the river Miñor. Late Romanesque, 13th century, rebuilt around 1232 while San Telmo was bishop of Tui, probably on the Roman road XX Per loca maritima. Pilgrims still enter Nigrán this way, as they always have. At the northern end, a scallop shell carved by local sculptor José Antonio Villaverde.

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    Flagstone deck of the medieval A Ramallosa bridge, marshland on either side
  3. Former pilgrims' hospital

    For centuries the Miñor crossing was where those walking to Santiago were taken in. That role lives on four hundred metres beyond the bridge, at the 17th-century Pazo de As Pías guesthouse, which still keeps rooms for pilgrims.

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    Granite façade of the Pazo de As Pías in Nigrán, with a palm tree and a coat of arms
  4. Sculpture of the pilgrim woman

    A 2.3-metre bronze on the Alameda by José Molares, a local resident and the sculptor of Vigo's Jules Verne. It shows a woman pilgrim mid-journey, with staff and rucksack. A plaque at her feet invites you to stop and look out over the Foz do Miñor, and to remember that the Camino is also walked inwardly.

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Parish church of San Mamede de Priegue, Nigrán, with its three-tier bell gable

Nigrán and Priegue

Manor houses, stone crosses and the climb up Monte Sanromán, the last serious ascent before Vigo. This is where we are.

  1. Cruceiro de Mallón

    One of the two stone crosses singled out by the official Camino guide on the way through Nigrán, along with O Pereiro. It marks the route among granaries, stone walls and vernacular architecture.

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  2. Pazo de Urzáiz

    Also known as the Pazo de Cadaval, one of the finest in the province. It already stood in the 14th century and has been a listed monument since 2006. Coats of arms of the Cadaval, Figueroa, Ozores, Montenegro, Ceta, Correa and Urzaiz families are set around the house.

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    The Pazo de Urzáiz seen from its garden, with stone balustrade, staircase and battlemented tower
  3. Pazo de Cea

    Sixteenth century and also a listed monument, with its own gateway and chapel. Together with Urzáiz it closes the flat stretch: from here the climb to Sanromán begins.

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    The Pazo de Cea among orange trees and meadow, with woodland behind
  4. Cruceiro do Pereiro

    The second cross highlighted by the official guide in Nigrán, already close to Priegue with the hillside behind you.

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  5. Paco's Bench

    Paco Alonso, a neighbour in Priegue, began by leaving out a basket of fruit from his land for people passing by. When he saw them sitting on the ground to eat it, he put up a bench. Today there is a table, a bin, signs counting down the kilometres to Santiago, a visitors' notebook, he's on the third, and a stamp for your credencial, a gift from five Catalan pilgrims. It's the most photographed stop on this stretch.

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  6. Berratolá

    You are here

    Our place, in Priegue. Coffee, bread, breakfasts and food to take away, water to refill your bottle and somewhere to sit before you carry on. You can check the menu and order from your phone as you walk.

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  7. Chapel of San Pío

    Directly opposite our door. A neighbourhood chapel of the kind that punctuates the Camino without appearing in any guidebook, and the landmark we give when people ask where to find us.

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  8. Cruceiro das Rexas

    Another granite cross at the roadside, on the way out of Priegue towards the Vigo boundary.

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  9. Fonte do Peregrino

    A fountain right on the route, the kind that has been slaking walkers' thirst for centuries. A good place to fill up before the urban stretch.

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Samil beach in Vigo, the sand curving towards the hill beyond

Vigo

The Camino drops down to the sea at Samil and enters the largest city in Galicia.

  1. Carreiro dos Muíños

    The millers' path drops down to Samil beach, Vigo's front porch, with the Cíes islands on the horizon. From there the best way into the city is to follow the Lagares river walkway upstream rather than fight the traffic.

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    Samil beach with wooden boats drawn up on the sand and the promenade beyond
  2. Church of San Salvador de Coruxo

    A 12th-century church, a Benedictine monastery under Celanova until the 14th century and a parish church ever since. Its three semicircular Romanesque apses survive, along with figured capitals and the original corbels: with Castrelos and Bembrive, it is one of the three finest Romanesque churches in Vigo. Beside it stand a cruceiro and an old fountain.

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    Romanesque apses of the church of San Salvador de Coruxo with a cruceiro in the foreground
  3. Co-cathedral of Santa María

    The Colexiata, which shares the seat of the diocese with Tui cathedral. Its predecessor was wrecked when a powder magazine at O Castro exploded in 1809; Melchor de Prado signed off the new design in 1811 and it was built between 1816 and 1838. It is the finest neoclassical building in Galicia, its two baroque towers the only concession. Inside is the Cristo da Vitoria.

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    Neoclassical façade of the co-cathedral of Santa María in Vigo, with both towers and the door open
Façade of the church of Santiago de Redondela with tower and rose window

Redondela

Where the coastal route joins the inland Portuguese Way.

  1. Church of Santiago de Redondela

    Consecrated by Archbishop Xelmírez in 1114, though almost nothing of the original Romanesque church remains: what you see is 15th and 16th century, with the baroque tower added in 1712. It stands at the highest point of the old town, with a plain façade, a rose window and a Santiago Matamouros above. Its dedication to the Apostle is no accident: this is where the two branches of the Portuguese Way meet.

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    Façade of the church of Santiago de Redondela with tower and rose window

Three things that help

  1. Check the menu before you arrive: choose at your own pace.
  2. Set your pickup time and sort your pack in good time.
  3. Pay on pickup. Keep your order confirmation handy.

Before you stop by

¿Puedo consultar la carta en mi idioma?
Sí. La carta digital está disponible en varios idiomas, pensada también para visitantes y peregrinos.
¿Es un restaurante con mesa o pedido para recoger?
Berratolá es un kiosko: puedes comer allí o pedir para recoger. Los pedidos online son siempre para recoger en el local; el pago se hace al recoger.
¿Berratolá está en el Camino Portugués por la Costa?
Sí. Estamos en Priegue, Nigrán, en el trazado oficial del Camino Portugués por la Costa, entre los pazos de Urzáiz y Cea y la bajada hacia Samil y Vigo.
¿Qué se ve entre Baiona y Redondela?
El tramo pasa por la capilla de Santa Liberata, el puente medieval de A Ramallosa, los pazos de Urzáiz y Cea, Priegue, donde está Berratolá, Samil, Coruxo, la concatedral de Vigo y la iglesia de Santiago de Redondela, donde se junta con el Camino Portugués del interior.